This is another job i have dreaded. It was not to bad. Just took a long time to find my starting point. Using plenty of bulldog clips, I pulled the lining tight all around. Then using a hot air gun warm the front section and pull and glue to the top windscreen surround edge. then gradually and carefully fork down both doors, while keeping the fabric warm and tight. then move to the rear quarter windows, Always keeping the lining as warm as possible. then move to the tail gate top lip, and finally the rear quarter panels down the boot top.
I have had too leave the dash fitting here. Mainly due to the fact that I want to replace the heater ducting pipework. This is proving to be hard to get hold of.
For reference the GT6 Mk3 ducting diameters are as follows
De mister ducting- 38mm or 1 1/2 inches
Dash vents – 44mm or 1 3/4 inches.
I have sourced the pipework from http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/wire-reinforced-flexible-ducting-pipe here on a next day delivery.
The Mounting brackets were fabricated with M4 countersunk screw welded into 16 gauge strips of steel. these need to be screwed into the back of the left and right dash panels and aligned in the body to sit square with the corresponding burr walnut panels.
I hope to be attacking this job at the weekend and maybe even attempting to start the car…
Most of the dash is in. I am waiting for a new Tack cable before I complete the installation.
After a lot of Jiggling and poking, I eventually got the two glasses fitted to the GT6. Then realised I had to remove them to fit the galss seal clips for the inner and outer weather strips.
I had stop short of fully installing the door contents as my rear window channel had not window felt guide remaining in it. Never fear, its now on order along with the drivers mirror. I think that is the first item I will need to fit on the other door.
Below is the radiator fitted. I might descide too fit an electric fan in the future. with this in mind I thought it would be wise to have an M22 boss soldered to the radiator in preperation for that day. For now it is plugged with the correct coolong fan switch. convenient…
Berkshire radiators did the rad for me, he also repaired a small leak, pressure tested the rad and painted it. all for £15. Many thanks to them for this. Here is a link to there site in case you need cooling work. radiators and Air con..
Fitting the door was quite a pain. It still has quite a gap to the sill. It seems I need to remove the lower hinge-body gasket. The hinge is as far in as i can move it. we shall see..
Below is the latest nightmare. The drivers door appears to be too long. The the door adjusted fully forwards, the door skin still contacts the rear wing at the lower swage line. All I can think to do is grind the door skin back a few mill, then tag the skin back together with weld.
I took the decision to repair the GT6 loom using soldered joints. The main reason was that it’s a permanent join and should not suffer with age from moisture or intermittent breakages.
The joins were then insulated with 3mm-1mm heat shrink and finally coverer in the dreaded insulation tape.
below are some of the electrical components being bolted back onto the bulkhead. (GT6 Started solenoid, GT6 Overdrive relay, GT6 Horn relay)
Due to the floor being replaced, I had to start with making new exhaust hangers. These consist of a strip of steel bent to a right angle, then a brace welded across one side. This brace also acts as the hanger. The bracket was then bolted to the rear of the boot floor and also the front lower edge of the rear valance.
Then I turned some tubes on the lath to pack the hanging straps. This stops the straps being over tightened and crushing the rubbers. then it was all offered up to mark the hanging bolt holes in the hangers, while making sure the box hangs square and level.