At the weekend I fitted my new 123 tune distributor. I fitted a new fusebox and relays to improve the power feed to try and eliminate any losses in the ols switchgear and corroded connections.
The fitting was very straight forward as described in the manual. The only fiddly bit was a modification I had to make to the old Delco securing clamp. This was expected as the 123 is designed to be a direct replacement for the Lucas, not really for the delco.
The modification only involved opening the clamp hole up by about 10mm in diameter. (where the clamp clamps around the dizzy.)
The keener eyed folk will notice the timing is set to 0Deg BTDC until 500rpm. This is a very big advantage with starting. in the past unacheivable with classic mechanical dizzys
the button below will take you to the .xml code for you to use and modify as you need. I hope it helps.
The initial GT6 Mk3 engine start up. I did start the car when I first bought it. the only reason was to get a gauge on how it ran and if the gearbox was fully functional. The engine ran well enough considering it had not been run in 10 years.
the video shows the engine running after fitting a full carburettor service kit and all new ignition components.
many thanks to Heather and her staff at James Auto,s. They were very Quick, professional, and helpful with regards to my MOT. Heather replaced a few bulbs on the car at no charge to ensure the car was up to scratch in all areas to earn it an MOT
Here i am fitting the front panels and bumper to my Triumph GT6 Mk3. Unfortunately i have had to fit an old bumper for now.
In these picture I am trial fitting the front valance so I can line up some brackets to be welded on. These will be the mounting points for the front numberplate.
The front indicators are installed and working after a few hours tracking faults in the loom. Hazard light were a pain. I got there in the end after finding the green/red and Green/white wires from the switch to the bulbs had internal breaks in the loom.
I am trying to get the car ready to move to another location. Ideally I would like to have the valance painted and on. Also with the bonnet fitted and aligned. The difficulty is in getting the bonnet to the car. I might resort to putting it on a roof rack.
The Mounting brackets were fabricated with M4 countersunk screw welded into 16 gauge strips of steel. these need to be screwed into the back of the left and right dash panels and aligned in the body to sit square with the corresponding burr walnut panels.
I hope to be attacking this job at the weekend and maybe even attempting to start the car…
Most of the dash is in. I am waiting for a new Tack cable before I complete the installation.
After a lot of Jiggling and poking, I eventually got the two glasses fitted to the GT6. Then realised I had to remove them to fit the galss seal clips for the inner and outer weather strips.
I had stop short of fully installing the door contents as my rear window channel had not window felt guide remaining in it. Never fear, its now on order along with the drivers mirror. I think that is the first item I will need to fit on the other door.
Below is the radiator fitted. I might descide too fit an electric fan in the future. with this in mind I thought it would be wise to have an M22 boss soldered to the radiator in preperation for that day. For now it is plugged with the correct coolong fan switch. convenient…
Berkshire radiators did the rad for me, he also repaired a small leak, pressure tested the rad and painted it. all for £15. Many thanks to them for this. Here is a link to there site in case you need cooling work. radiators and Air con..
Fitting the door was quite a pain. It still has quite a gap to the sill. It seems I need to remove the lower hinge-body gasket. The hinge is as far in as i can move it. we shall see..
Below is the latest nightmare. The drivers door appears to be too long. The the door adjusted fully forwards, the door skin still contacts the rear wing at the lower swage line. All I can think to do is grind the door skin back a few mill, then tag the skin back together with weld.
The bumper bars were in a right state. Two had to have to old inner wing remains cut off then due to corrosion. The bars were cleaned back to metal with a course flap disk on an angle grinder and are ready for a coat of paint tonight.
The GT6 Information, Restoration,and Documentation Site.