All posts by George Angus

Cylinder head removal, refurbishment and re-build

Evidence of valves not sealing as they should in the cylinder head
Evidence of valves not sealing as they should in the cylinder head. Also slight chamber work seems to have been carried out on this head. Abnormalities seem to be the plug recess has been blended and the shrouding around the valves also blended slightly. Almost akin to the Vizard tuning manual for Triumphs

After the disappointing rolling road dyno session I decided to look a bit deeper into the engine state.  The first step was a compresion test of all 6 cylinders.  Removal of the spark plugs was straightforward and the compression showed as a bit lower than expected.  about 130 on a few cylinders.

This led me to believe there was either a problem with the head or the pistons/bores.  The next step is to prepare the cylinder head for removal.  While at this point I decsided to check and replace the cam timing chain, tensioner and gears.  This will be replaced with a duplex chain and vernier cam wheel for accurate timing.
Also the  cam followers.  Due to wear on the rocker tips and a bit much play on the rockers and  the rocker shaft; I have also decided to replace the shaft and rockers with a new shaft.  This will also have new bronze bushed rockers fitted with spacers replacing the springs between rockers.

Brief procedure for Triumph top end removal.

1:   Release throttle and choke cables.
2:   Disconnect  Remove Air filter, carbs,
3:  Disconnect radiator hoses and inlet manifold hoses
3:   Remove inlet and exhaust manifolds
4:   Remove radiator/ fan and water pump.
5:  Remove rocker cover by releasing 2 securing bolts on the top
6:  Remove the rocker arm assembly by removing the 6 bolts securing the 6 pillars. Then lift off the shaft assy.
inspect the rocker tips for wear and the push rod tips and adjusters.
7:  Remove cylinder head securing nuts and lift of the cylinder head.
8:  Inspect the bores and head mating surfaces for wear and distortion.

New parts used

Stainless steel valves x 12
valve guides x12
payen head gasket and others associated with job
Cam followers x 12
Vernier Duplex timing kit
Rocker shaft and bronze bushed rockers x 12
Solid rocker spacers
Oil filter and Oil
Anti freeze

Vernier cam gear for for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Duplex vernier cam gear for the for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Rocker arms for for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
New Rocker shaft and bronze bushed rockers for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Can followers for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
New cam followers x 12 for the for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Combustion Chamber for for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
New valves fitted after ne guides , skim and seat cut for for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Cylinder head for for a GT6, TR6, Triumph 2000
Triumph 6 cylinder head after a fresh skim
New valves installed
New valves installed



Head removed and prep work for the top end rebuild of a Triumph 6 cylinder engine
Head removed and prep work for the top end rebuild of a Triumph 6 cylinder engineAt this point I removed the valves and pressed out the valve guides.     After removing the 12 valves I found evidence of gas passing past most exhaust valves.  This can be seen by the blackening and pitting on the valves and valve seat face.
Sandblasted water pump and housing for triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6
Sandblasted water pump and housing for triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6
Triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6 inlet manifold opened up (ported) slightly for better breathing to cylinder 5
Triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6 inlet manifold opened up (ported) slightly for better breathing to cylinder 5
Triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6 inlet manifold opened up (ported) slightly for better breathing to cylinder 2
Triumph GT6, 2000, 2500 and TR6 inlet manifold opened up (ported) slightly for better breathing to cylinder 2
Triumph GT6, 2000 TR6, or 2500 Valve clearances set.  0.25mm or 0.010"
Triumph GT6, 2000 TR6, or 2500 Valve clearances set. 0.25mm or 0.010″
new rocker shaft with bushed rockers and solid spacer kit
new rocker shaft with bushed rockers and solid spacer kit
triumph sandblasted and painted GT6, TR6, 2000 or even 2500 exhaust manifold
triumph sandblasted and painted GT6, TR6, 2000 or even 2500 exhaust manifold
triumph 6 cylinder GT6, 2000 or TG6 duplex vernier can timing using the overlap method on cylinder 6, hence cylinder 1 on compression stroke
triumph 6 cylinder GT6, 2000 or TG6 duplex vernier can timing using the overlap method on cylinder 6, hence cylinder 1 on compression stroke







Cylinders 2, 3 and 4 were also passing gasses between each other, as could be seen by the blackened block face; under the gasket and gasket damage at the cylinder wall points

At this point I pressed in new valve guides and sent the head for a surface skim and valve seat re-cut.


While the head was away for the engineering work I  cleaned up the head casting with brake cleaner and a scotch-brite scourer.  as pictured above.








123 tune distributor initial Ignition curve

At the weekend I fitted my new 123 tune distributor.  I fitted a new fusebox and relays to improve the power feed to try and eliminate any losses in the ols switchgear and corroded connections.

The fitting was very straight forward as described in the manual.  The only fiddly bit was a modification I had to make to the old Delco securing clamp.  This was expected as the 123 is designed to be a direct replacement for the Lucas, not really for the delco.

The modification only involved opening the clamp hole up by about 10mm in diameter.  (where the clamp clamps around the dizzy.)

123 tume ignition map
ignition advance curve for 123 tune fitted to A Triumph GT6 Mk3

The keener eyed folk will notice the timing is set to 0Deg BTDC until 500rpm.  This is a very big advantage with starting.  in the past unacheivable with classic mechanical dizzys


the button below will take you to the .xml code for you to use and modify as you need.  I hope it helps.

123 curve

GT6 / Spitfire Adjustable front wishbones

There are many advantages to fitting these adjustable front wishbones to your GT6 or Spitfire.

– fully adjustable camber

– Lighter configuration

– stronger suspension with less flex

Here is the procedure for fitting these modifications

1: Park the vehicle on a flat and solid surface and chock the rear wheels, then release the handbrake.


GT6 spitfire rear wheels chocked
GT6 spitfire rear wheels chocked







2: Locate a suitable jack under the front main chassis rail.

trolley jack under GT6 chassis
Triumph GT6 chassis jacking point







3: Loosen the 4 wheel nuts about a half a turn on the corner to be removed.  Now jack the vehical to a height that will allow axel stands to be inserted under the main chassis rails.

4: remove the 4 wheel nuts and wheel.

Spitfire GT6 wheel
ratchet spanner on GT6 wheel nuts







4: If working on the left corner, turn the steering fully to the left to gain better access to the wishbone/hub.

5: Remove the wishbone-hub mounting bolt, then use a suitable ball joint breaker to separate the tapered joint as bellow.

GT6 Spitfire front upper wishbone   Triumph wishbone seperation   Image00012

6: Remove the 2 inboard mounting bolts, try not to drop or lose the captive nuts.

Image00015   Image00016

7: remove the upper wishbone.

8: using a press or vice, (hamer and suitable sized sockets can be used) press fit the 2 inner bushes into the new wishbone, then insert the wishbone into the chassis upright.  Insert the 2 bolts  (I recommend always re-greasing and bolts removed to preserve  them.)

preserving suspension bolts
copper ease is ideal for any bolts out in the elements. they will stay free for years
Triumph GT6 / Spitfire camber adjustable front suspension
Triumph GT6 / Spitfire camber adjustable front suspension

Do not fully tighten the inboard two bolts until the car is back resting on it’s wheel.  this helps the bushed settle in their most relaxed and natural position.

9: Insert the tapered ball joint into the front hub upright, to set the taper firmly in place it is sometimes helpful toe give the top a tap with a hammer.  this will stop the ball joint spinning while trying to tighten the securing nut on the underside

Image00019  At this point you can fit the large locking nut on the ball joint end, refit the road wheel and 4 nuts.  remove the axle stands and jack from under the car.  I would recommend bouncing the suspension a few times before tightening the inboard two wishbone bolts.


Triumph GT6 Clutch removal and replacement instructions

The only part of the GT6 that I left relatively untouched was the engine ,gearbox and overdrive. The reason for this was I had the car Started and moving around a small yard before all the rebuild work took place. Alas after only a few miles of driving, the clutch thrust bearing started to make noises that resembled a small cage of birds.
since the car has been put away for the up-coming winter months I thought it would be a good time to undertake the necessary work.

There are a few ways this can be done. The first is to remove the engine and Gearbox as one unit. Then remove the GT6 gearbox from the 2 litre Straight six engine. Change the clutch and rebuilt in reverse sequence. I decided to go the other route and remove the gearbox from within the GT6 cabin, while leaving the engine in place.

Here is a list of Parts, tools and instructions on how to achieve this.

Clutch plate,
Clutch cover,
Thrust bearing,
If worn, Bearing carrier and actuation arm. Check for wear at the point that the arm engages the carrier ring
Gearbox Oil, ( EP90 for topping up. EP75w-80 or EP75w-90 for filling from empty.)

List of tools
Ideally 2 people
Trolley Jack,
Axel stands,
1/2″ Spanners,
7/16″ Spanners,
9/16″ Spanners,
Socket set to fit above sized
clutch alignment tool

Removal instructions

Disconnect battery (Important)
Remove passenger side glove box.
Remove gearbox tunnel carpet.
Remove gearbox tunnel
Passenger seat removal is optional. be careful not to scrape or damage it if left in.

GT6 gearbox, gearbox tunnel, GT6 cabin
Exposed GT6 gearbox

Disconnect propshaft. (4 x 9/16″ bolts, nuts) this may require rocking the GT6 forwards and backwards to gain access to all bolts from the cabin area.
Disconnect speedometer drive cable.
Disconnect reverse switch and overdrive unit wiring (If fitted) see picture below.
Remove the Clutch slave cylinder and actuation pin, that is located in the cabin on the bell housing by releasing the 2 1/2″ bolts

GT6 overdrive wiring

Jack up the front of the GT6, and rest securely on axle stands
Chock the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. (Important)
remove the jack, and place under the rear of engine with a substantial block to support the engine weight.
Raise the jack to take the weight of engine and gearbox. (not lift, just support)
Remove the engine starter motor, 2 x 9/16″ bolts
Remove the gearbox / chassis mounts in the cabin, they are located on the underside of the box, and to the rear. 2 x 1/2″ bolts
Now begin removing bell housing bolts. Start from the bottom, as this will leave the top 3 studs still supporting the weight of the gearbox. 1/2″ nuts and bolts. Note: two people make this job a lot easier. 1 on the engine side with a 1/2″ spanner and 1 on the cabin side with 1/2″ ratchet driver. (See pic)

GT6, GT6 clutch, GT6 bell housing
GT6 clutch bell housing bolts

Once all but the top 3 nuts, on studs have been removed, remove the 2 nuts either side of the central stud/nut. clear the engine earth strap out of the way.
Now slowly undo the top nut on the stud. As it is undone you might find the gear box slowly start to pull away from the engine plate. Just support the rear of the gearbox.
Once the nut if fully off, I would recommend one person in each foot well. hold the rear of the gearbox, pull and wiggle slightly until the gearbox bell housing has pulled away from the engine block.

We found it easiest to lift the prop shaft end of the gearbox, and rotate it into the passenger side foot well. Some jiggling was required to clear the bell housing front under the lower dash rails.

Once the gearbox is clear you will be faced with 6 1/2″ bolts around the edge of the pressure plate. gradually undo these in a criss cross pattern to prevent distortion on any mating surfaces.

Now take your new clutch plate and alignment toot and offer it up to the flywheel. Make sure the plate is the correct way round. “flywheel side” is written on the side that mates with the flywheel.
Now offer up the new clutch cover. this should locate on the 3 dowel pins next to 3 of the 6 securing bolts.

screw in the 6 securing bolts by hand until starting to apply pressure on the cover plate. Then proceed to tighten them gradually in a criss cross manner. Again, this will prevent distortion of the new cover plate. the result should look like this,

new GT6 clutch

While the gearbox is removed, it is always worth replacing the clutch thrust bearing. this sits in the bell housing on a carrier, Just slide the carrier of the main shaft. carefully drift the carrier off the thrust bearing. fit the new bearing to the carrier by drifting of using a vice/press. Note: never drift bearing on the outer race. this will damage the internals and undo the good work you are undertaking

The reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal


It must be said, (as pointed out bellow) This is a convenient time to check / replace the gearbox oil. Either when the tunnel has been lifted out, when the gearbox has been removed or just re fitted.
Advisory: Try to ensure when checking the fluid levels that the car/ gearbox are sat as level as possible to ensure the fill plug drains the oil at the right level, weather in car or on the bench.  I would recommend EP90 for topping up. EP75w-80 or EP75w-90 for filling from empty.  The fill/level indicator plug is located on the right ride of the gearbox and is removed using a 1/2″ spanner on its square head.  Fill slowly until you start to get some run-off coming from the fill hole.  Leave the unit to stand for a few minutes thenreplace the square headed plug.

Many thanks to Chris Cook.

triumph GT6 Mk3 suspension upgrade

GT6 shocks and springs
The old front GT6 suspension
When I first got the car ready for it’s MOT, I uprated the rear suspension.  the read had a new leaf spring, lowering block and new Gaz adjustable shock absorbers fitted.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have the funds to set the front end up to a similar spec, although, all the springs and shocks were renewed.  The were as standard.  I think it has come to the time to try and match the front to the rear, to try and improve the general road holding.  I have purchased a new set of uprated springs and fully adjustable Gaz shock.  they were fitted last weekend.

Due to the lowering of the front end, the cambers are all shot to hell.  The original way of setting these was with shims that slide behind the wishbone mounts were they meet the chassis.  I think I will replace the shims with a fully adjustable top wishbone as can be seen on the Canley Classics product list.


1972 with comprehensive restoration work

The triumph GT6 featured on the website will soon be offered for sale.  This GT6 offered for sale was purchased in 2008 and has had many thousands of pounds spent to bring it up to a very high standard.  Below is a list of parts about to be fitted and also a list of parts that have been replaced.  This car has only covered a few hundred miles since being put back on the road in the year 2012.  If you are interested please make contact through the members login page, and I will contact you promptly.

Here is the list of replaced parts to date.  All purchased new from Canley and Rimmer Bro’s 

Chassis, suspension and brakes

Rear Suspension

New rear Uprated Spring.
Rear shock absorbers  Gaz Adjustable.
Rear Lowering Spacer.
Rear Suspension Bolt kit.
Rubber Diff Mounts x 4.
Canley Classics Rotoflex conversion to CV Driveshafts  £500.00.
Rear Suspension bushes Complete.

Front Suspension

Gaz fully adjustable Front shock absorbers (height / damping).
Uprated front Suspension springs x 2
Canley Classics Camber adjustable front wishbones
Rose jointed Anti roll bar drop links
Track rod ends.
All Suspension bushes x 8.
New Uprated anti roll bar.
Complete front Suspension Bolt kit. 


brake Master cylinder
brake drums x 2.
Brake shoes.
Brake spring kit.
Hand Brake cable.
Solid brake Lines.
Goodridge Braided Brake Lines x 4.
Brake drums x 2.
Brake shoes.
Brake spring kit.
Hand Brake cable.
Front Brake Disks x 2.

Other machanicals

Prop Shaft UJ,s x 2.
Engine Mounts x 4.
Steering Rack.
Uprated, Rack-column link.
Hub pivot ball joints x 2.
Front Wheel Bearings x 4.
front hub steering trunnions x 2.

 Body Panels 

Front Outer Wheel Arches
Rear Wings x 2
rear Outer Wheel Arches
Outer Sills x 2
Inner Sills x 2
Sill Strengtheners x 2
Sill filler Panel x 2
Sill End cap x 2
Floor Pans x 2
Cross members x 2
Boot Floor
Rear valance
Rear Light panel
A-post panel x 2


Trim and other parts

Roof lining
Black carpet
Walnut Dashboard
Dial chrome bezels, glass and seals
Windscreen seal and trim
Windscreen wipers
Windscreen wiper mount bevels, seals and nuts
Windscreen motor mount Strap and base
Rear Screen seal and trim  (trim not fitted)
Boot lid Seal Door hinge Bolts and gasket.
Door Slam plates.
Door cards.
Rear ¼ panels.
Door weather seals, interior/exterior.
Rear 1/4 Light window seal.
Carpet Set.
Gearbox Tunnel.
Rear light Seals.
Rear Light Bulb holders.
Rear chrome horse shoe trim.
Wing mirrors x 2



Starter Solenoid.
Wiper Motor.
All new Bulbs.
Bulb Holders.
New Coil.
Electronic ignition kit.
New HT leads.
New HT cap

Fluid Control

Fuel line, Complete tank to Carbs.
Fuel tank Sender Seal and locking ring.
Full Stromberg Carb refurbishment kit x2.
Fuel pump.
New cooling / heating hose set.
Refurbished radiator (sender mounting boss soldered for cooling upgrade if required)
New water pump.
Heater control valve